The Hidden World Behind European Luxury Fashion
The European luxury fashion industry is a world of glamour, exclusivity, and high quality. However, what many consumers don’t realize is that countries like India play a crucial role in this industry’s success. For decades, luxury fashion houses have discreetly relied on developing nations like India for manufacturing, benefiting from cheap labor and abundant handicraft skills. Even when you see labels saying “Made in France” or “Made in Italy,” the reality often involves significant contributions from India.
India’s connection to luxury fashion dates back centuries. Traditionally, the nation’s embroiderers, known as “karigar,” were primarily Muslim men who migrated to Mumbai from rural areas. Embroidery has always been a symbol of distinction among different social classes. Even if a fashion creation begins in Paris, Italy, or England, India has become the backbone of the embroidery industry since the 1980s.
In India, there are two types of textile facilities involved in luxury fashion. The first category includes export houses with safe and well-ventilated facilities. The second comprises subcontractors operating in small factories. Unfortunately, the working conditions in subcontractor factories can be subpar, with some artisans even sleeping on the factory floor to save on rent.
Today, India has become one of the world’s largest garment exporters, with a textiles and apparel market worth over $150 billion in 2021. Despite this, the connection between Western luxury brands and India remained a closely guarded secret for years. Luxury brands often hesitated to put “Made in India” on their products, fearing potential consumer skepticism about quality.
One of the myths surrounding luxury fashion is that being transparent about supply chains is commercially sensitive and could harm business. However, improved transparency is essential for protecting the often vulnerable workers in global supply chains. Our investigation focused on one jacket, which retailed for approximately 43,000 Euros and showcased India’s craftsmanship. While it took more than 2,000 hours of embroidery in India, the final stitching and finishing touches occurred in Europe, allowing the “Made in France” label to be attached.
In March 2023, Dior became one of the first international luxury brands to openly showcase a collection in India, acknowledging the country’s artisanal legacy. This step marked a shift towards recognizing and celebrating the craftsmanship done in India rather than concealing it behind European labels.
The “Made in India” garment tag is becoming a symbol of change in the industry. Younger, more progressive creatives are advocating for fairness and transparency in how luxury fashion acknowledges its suppliers. Over the last three decades, luxury brands have significantly relied on Indian manufacturing, making it impossible to ignore India’s role in shaping the world of European luxury fashion.
Behind the glamour and opulence of European luxury fashion lies a hidden world where India’s craftsmanship and labor are indispensable. While the industry has long concealed these ties, changing perspectives and growing demands for transparency are forcing luxury brands to acknowledge their roots. As consumers, understanding the true story behind our fashion choices is essential to promote ethical practices in the industry.
